Sunday, 2 October 2011

today i love... the best of lfw

I've been so busy that I'm super behind on fashion week posts, and London Fashion Week now seems like ages ago. But better late than never, so I thought I'd do a round-up of all my favourite shows and front row looks from LFW. The big show of the week for me is always Burberry Prorsum, but sadly for the second season in a row it just didn't do it for me. It's a real shame because before that Christopher Bailey's collections were exactly indicative of my style. A/W'10 and S/S'11 were in particular absolute perfection in my eyes. But last season I was shocked to find I just wasn't feeling the 60s vibe, and now for S/S'12 I was again left disappointed by the folksy, craftswork-themed show. But oh well, I live in hope that next season will see a return to form from Bailey. Anyway, onto what I did love about LFW...

My favourite shows:

Why I loved it: Regular readers will know how much I worship at the altar of Acne. This achingly cool Swedish brand just seems to keep churning out clothes I would give my right arm to own. This collection was no different. A very casual, slightly sporty collection, made up of relaxed tailoring in denim and leather, with standout star motifs across a range of items and punctuated by classic black accessories. Get the look here.
Colour palette: Black; white; denim blue; navy; baby pink; ochre yellow; rust orange.
Trends: Sportswear; loose, slouchy fits; leather; denim; stars; colour blocking.

Why I loved it: After a disappointing last season (too prim and prissy for me), this season I was thoroughly relieved to find myself a big fan of Unique's show. Egyptian-themed, with emphasis on metallics and 90s sportswear, this was as always quite an out-there collection, but one which I could easily see myself taking pieces from and mixing them up with basics to create a seriously fashion-forward look. The rose-gold shorts are definitely on my S/S'12 wishlist.
Colour palette: Black; white; old gold; rose gold; dusky pink; denim blue.
Trends: Egyptian; sportswear; 90s; metallics; cropped tops; monochrome.

Why I loved it: I was a big fan of Simone Rocha's last two collections, and this one continued in much the same vein. With perspex shoes and accessories, chiffon sleeves on jackets and dresses, clothes encased in plastic and a classic wearable colour palette, it was hardly a break from Rocha's usual style, but that's no bad thing.
Colour palette: Black; nude; crimson; turquoise.
Trends: Perspex; sheer; monochrome; tailoring.

Why I loved it: An unusually soft collection from a designer who started out employing some serious shock tactics to get noticed, but then I do think as designers become more established they feel less need to grab people's attention and can focus on really making their clothes beautiful and wearable. Certainly that's what Kane did this season. A soft, watercolour collection in muted hues, Kane showed metallic-look dresses and jackets laden with sparkling embellishment, alongside beautifully cut separates in vivid floral patterns. Admittedly some of the more abstract floral pieces weren't for me, but the bias-cut silk dresses and skirts were perfection, as was the origami-like detailing on further stunning pieces.
Colour palette: White; black; ice blue; dove grey; palest pink.
Trends: Silks and chiffons; sorbet shades; embellishment; unusual cuts; florals.

Why I loved it: Another Swedish designer I've really come to love over the last few seasons. Fantastically minimalist and hard-edged with emphasis on brilliantly-cut tailoring, this was a show that was in some ways breathtakingly simple, but in others stunningly well thought-through. Mainly in a monochromatic palette, it showed that you don't need colour or fussy details to look effortlessly well put together.
Colour palette: Black; white; dove grey; navy; baby pink.
Trends: Monochrome; tailoring; minimalism; sheer; clutch bags; unusual cuts.

Why I loved it: I watched this show live and I wasn't entirely sure whether I'd be a fan or not. But Schwab quickly won me over with this sumptuous, sophisticated collection. From the James Bond-esque soundtrack to the super-slick hair and make-up, this was a show that oozed sensual elegance. Cutout details lent modernity to super-sexy dresses, while hits of leather and satin meant there was no danger of monotony here. Sleek trenches, mesh-panelled dresses and the most beautiful shoes I've ever seen (want, want, want) added up to a seriously lustworthy collection.
Colour palette: Black; nude; dove grey; white; lavender.
Trends: Sensual; bodycon; sheer/mesh; cutouts; silks and chiffons.

Why I loved it: I'm not big on prints generally, but the design duo behind Peter Pilotto have always managed to get me dangerously close to changing my mind with their stunning collections. There is something very strong and sensual about their prints, which serves to banish my reservations regarding mumsy florals or in-your-face checks. In this collection they splashed their prints across perfectly figure-hugging dresses and produced ikat prints in bold colours with details like zips and crossovers, which only served to make me rethink my stance on prints even more. Beautiful.
Colour palette: Cobalt blue; scarlet; acid yellow; black; off white.
Trends: Prints; bright colours; bodycon; swimwear influences.

My favourite front row looks:


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